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Claim Documentation

How to Document Roof, Wind and Hail Damage the Way Adjusters Expect

By Mike — Licensed GC & Public Adjuster — 12 min read

Roof claims are won or lost on evidence, and most of that evidence disappears within weeks. Shingles blow off and get swept up, tarps go up, leaks dry out and contractors replace what was damaged. The adjuster who arrives three weeks after the storm is looking at whatever you preserved. This guide is the documentation protocol I would use on my own house: what to photograph, in what order, and how to keep the record intact.

Start with safety, not paperwork

Get the property into a safe, stable condition first — tarp the opening, stop the water, board the window — and photograph the damage before you do it. Never climb onto a damaged roof. Storm-hit shingles are brittle, wet decking is slick, and the injury risk is not worth the photograph. A zoom lens from the ground, a ladder placed carefully on level ground, or a pole-mounted camera gets the same evidence.

Mitigation is not repair: tarps, board-up and water extraction are temporary protection your policy generally expects you to take. Photograph the damage first, keep the receipts, and photograph the temporary work too. The receipts are reimbursable, the photos are the evidence.

The photo sequence that tells the whole story

An adjuster needs three levels of detail on every damaged area: where it is, what it looks like in context, and what it looks like up close. Shoot in that order, and repeat it for each elevation and each interior room.

A wide shot of each side of the house, taken from across the yard so the whole elevation is visible.

The address marker or a house number in one establishing shot, so the file is unmistakably tied to your property.

Each roof slope with visible damage, photographed from a safe vantage point rather than from on the roof.

Lifted, creased, torn or missing shingles in close-up, with your hand, a tape measure or a coin in frame for scale.

Granule loss patterns, exposed mat and any soft spots — the shingle damage that shows up after wind, not just hail.

Soft metals: gutters, downspouts, vents, flashing, and the tops of fences and HVAC units.

Interior damage with the source visible where possible: ceiling stains, sagging drywall, water lines, and the room around it.

Any temporary repairs, photographed before and after, including tarps, board-up and water extraction.

Put scale in the frame

A close-up of a torn shingle with nothing beside it is ambiguous — it could be the size of a hand or the size of a dinner plate. Include a tape measure, a coin, a ruler or your hand in the frame, and shoot a second frame without it. The pair proves both the damage and its dimensions, and it is the difference between a line item that gets paid and one that gets argued about.

Also measure the roof itself: rough square footage by slope, ridge and valley lengths, and the pitch if you can determine it. Those numbers let a contractor's estimate and the carrier's estimate be compared on the same basis instead of as two unrelated totals.

Record a narrated video walkthrough

Ten to fifteen minutes of continuous video, narrated as you go, is the single most useful file in a roof claim. Walk the exterior first, then the interior, describing what you see, where you are standing and what caused it. Do not edit, trim or add music. A continuous recording with your voice explaining the damage carries an authenticity that a folder of stills cannot, and adjusters watch it.

Cover the date of loss, what you noticed and when, which rooms are affected, and any area you cannot access. If part of the attic or a second-story slope is unreachable, say so on camera — that record protects you from being blamed later for not documenting it.

Hail: test the soft metals

Hail damage on asphalt shingles is subtle: bruising, granule displacement, and mat fractures that are easy to miss and easy to dispute. What is not subtle is what hail does to soft metals. Check gutters, downspouts, vent caps, flashing, the tops of HVAC condensers, patio furniture and fence rails for impact dents, and photograph each one with scale.

Newer shingle systems are often impact-rated, and their damage pattern looks different from older shingles. Note shingle brand, product line and approximate age if you know them; a contractor's inspection report or the original roofing invoice is the best source. Age and product matter because they determine what the carrier owes, not just whether they owe.

Wind: prove the direction and the mechanism

Wind claims hinge on mechanism. Lifted and creased tabs, missing shingles concentrated on one elevation, seal-strip failure, and debris impact marks all tell the story of wind rather than wear. Photograph the pattern across the whole slope rather than one isolated area, because a single damaged shingle looks like age and a pattern looks like a storm.

Note the storm date and keep a record of the weather that hit your address, whether that is a neighbor's video, a local news report or a personal log. Matching the date of loss to a documented weather event at your location is one of the simplest ways to remove an argument the carrier might otherwise raise.

Interior damage: follow the water

Interior photos should connect the stain to the roof. Photograph the ceiling stain, the wall below it, and the room around it in one sequence so the location is unambiguous. If a moisture meter is used, photograph the reading against the material it is measuring. Preserve damaged material until it has been photographed and, ideally, inspected — do not paint over a stain or replace drywall before the record exists.

Itemize contents separately. A photograph of a wet, ruined rug on a wet floor supports a contents line item; a photograph of an empty room after cleanup supports nothing.

Never edit the originals. No cropping, filters or resizing, and never let a messaging app recompress a photo before you save it — that strips the metadata a carrier relies on. Back the originals up somewhere off the phone, and keep a simple log with the date, time and a one-line description of each set.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many photos should I take for a roof damage claim?

There is no fixed count, but a practical standard is a wide shot of each elevation, a mid-range shot of each damaged slope, and close-ups of every damaged area with something in frame for scale. Add photos connecting the damage to the cause, such as debris impact marks, lifted or creased shingle tabs, and exposed decking.

Should I go on the roof to take pictures?

No. Photograph from the ground with a zoom lens, from a ladder placed on stable ground, or with a pole-mounted camera. Fall injuries are a real risk and homeowner safety comes first. If the roof cannot be safely photographed, note that in your record and ask the adjuster to inspect the slope in question.

Does a tarp hide damage from the adjuster?

A tarp does not destroy the claim, but it can hide the evidence that proves the cause. Photograph the damaged area thoroughly before any tarp, board-up or repair, and keep those files with their original timestamps.

What is a hail hit test?

A hail hit test is a close inspection of soft metals such as gutters, downspouts, vents and flashing for impact dents, done alongside close-up photography of shingle bruising. Damage to soft metals supports the argument that hail reached the roof, and it is one of the first things an adjuster checks.

Do phone photos work for an insurance claim?

Yes, provided they are original files with intact metadata and timestamps. Do not crop, filter, resize or screenshot your photos, and do not let a messaging app recompress them before you store them. Keep the originals backed up off the phone.

How long should I keep claim documentation?

Keep it until the claim is fully closed, including any recoverable depreciation payment, and for several years afterward in case the claim is reopened or audited. Photographs and receipts are difficult or impossible to recreate later.

Where to go next

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